Have you ever finished a crochet ball and noticed little bumps or holes where you decreased? Those bumps come from the regular single crochet decrease. It works, but on tight amigurumi fabric it leaves a bulky stitch that stands out.
The invisible decrease fixes that. It is a small change in how you work the stitch, and the result looks almost exactly like a regular single crochet. This guide shows you how to do the invisible decrease crochet stitch step by step, how it compares to sc2tog, and how to keep your count right when the decreases are hard to see.
What You’ll Need
- Smooth yarn in a light color for practice (cotton or acrylic)
- A crochet hook a size or two smaller than the yarn label suggests
- Stitch markers to mark the start of each round
- Polyester fiberfill for a practice ball
- Tapestry needle
Light colors make it much easier to see the front loops while you learn.
Regular Decrease vs Invisible Decrease
Both stitches turn two stitches into one. The difference is in which loops you use and how many loops end up on your hook.
| Regular sc decrease (sc2tog) | Invisible decrease (inv dec) | |
|---|---|---|
| Loops used | Both loops of two stitches | Front loops only of two stitches |
| Yarn overs before finishing | One in each stitch | None until the end |
| Loops on hook at the end | 3 | 2 |
| Look | Bulkier, can leave a small gap | Flat, looks like a normal sc |
| Best for | Flat rows, garments | Amigurumi, worked in the round |
Because you only pull through two loops at the end, the invisible decrease sits flat and blends into the fabric.
How to Work the Invisible Decrease (US Terms)
Step 1: Find the next two stitches you want to decrease. Look at the top of the stitches; each one has a front loop (closest to you) and a back loop.
Step 2: Insert your hook under the front loop only of the first stitch. Do not yarn over.
Step 3: Keep that loop on the hook and insert your hook under the front loop only of the second stitch. You now have three loops on your hook: your working loop and two front loops.
Step 4: Yarn over and pull through the two front loops. You now have two loops on your hook.
Step 5: Yarn over again and pull through both loops on the hook. That’s one invisible decrease done.
That’s all there is to it. Two stitches have become one, and you only used the front loops, so the back loops stay in place and hide the decrease.
Practice Round: A Simple Ball
The best way to learn the invisible decrease is to make a small ball. You increase to a round shape and then decrease back down, which gives you plenty of practice.
Step 1: Make a magic ring and work a small ball shape: increase evenly in the first rounds, then work a few even rounds with no increases.
Step 2: Start your decrease rounds. Wherever you would usually work a decrease, use the invisible decrease instead.
Step 3: Stuff the ball when the opening is about the size of a quarter.
Step 4: Keep decreasing until you have just a few stitches left, then fasten off and close the hole.
Compare the top half (decreases) with the bottom half (increases). If your invisible decreases are working, you should barely see a difference.
How to Count Invisible Decreases
The biggest catch with this stitch is that it hides very well, and that includes from you. It is easy to lose count.
Step 1: Always mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker.
Step 2: Count stitches at the end of every decrease round. Don’t wait until the end of the piece.
Step 3: To spot a decrease, look at the back loops along the top of the round. A decrease leaves one stitch top sitting over two stitches below.
Step 4: If you find a mistake, frog back to the marker and redo the round. Fixing it right away is much easier than fixing a lopsided shape later.
Learn More
INVISIBLE DECREASE: Crochet Tutorial for Amigurumi by Rachel at Desert Blossom Crafts is a free written tutorial with a video section, extra tips on avoiding loose stitches, and a short FAQ: https://desertblossomcrafts.com/invisible-decrease-crochet/
For a quick practice project, the free Amigurumi Heart pattern by Lilleliis is small and easy, worked in DK cotton. The pattern is written with regular decreases, so it is a nice chance to swap in the invisible decrease and see how much smoother it looks: https://www.lilleliis.com/amigurumi-crochet-freebies/amigurumi-heart-pattern/
Common Mistakes (and How to Fix Them)
- Yarning over in the first stitch. That turns it into a regular decrease. Only go under the front loops, no yarn over until both are on the hook.
- Going through both loops. This makes a bulky stitch with a gap. Look closely and pick up just the front loop.
- Accidentally increasing. After a decrease, it is easy to work the next stitch into the same spot. Make sure your next stitch goes into the next unworked stitch.
- Losing your count. The decrease is hard to see. Use a stitch marker on every round and count often.
- Loose stitch right after the decrease. Pull your working yarn gently snug after finishing the decrease so the next stitch sits tight.
- Tight front loops that are hard to grab. If your hook won’t fit, your tension may be too tight. Relax your grip a little, or use a hook with a pointier head.
Tips
- Practice in a light, smooth yarn first. Fuzzy or dark yarn hides the loops.
- Use a hook with a pointy tip. It slides under front loops much more easily.
- If a pattern just says “dec” or “sc2tog,” you can almost always use the invisible decrease instead. The stitch count stays the same.
- Work in good light, and tilt your work toward you to see the front loops clearly.
- Use it on every part of a toy, not just the head. Arms, legs and bodies all look smoother.
- Once it feels natural, try it in plush or chenille yarn. Go slowly, since loops are harder to see.
FAQ
Is the invisible decrease the same as sc2tog?
They do the same job, turning two stitches into one, but they are worked differently. Sc2tog goes through both loops and leaves three loops on the hook at the end. The invisible decrease only uses front loops and finishes with two, so it lies flat and looks much neater on amigurumi.
Can I use the invisible decrease in any amigurumi pattern?
Yes. In almost every pattern, you can swap a regular single crochet decrease for an invisible decrease without changing anything else. The stitch count is the same. It is mostly used in the round, which is how most amigurumi is worked.
Why are there still small holes where I decreased?
Check that you are only going through the front loops, and that you are not yarning over until both loops are on your hook. Loose tension can also cause gaps, so try a smaller hook. Tighter fabric hides decreases better and keeps the stuffing from showing.
Once you try the invisible decrease, you will probably never go back to the regular one for your amigurumi.